“Rising Demand for Heirloom Grains: How Anson Mills Thrives Amid Pandemic Trends”
Anson Mills, known for producing heirloom grains such as Carolina Gold Rice and emmer wheat, has experienced annual sales growth since its establishment in South Carolina in 1998. The COVID-19 pandemic has significantly boosted demand for these traditional grains, which have been cherished across generations. Glenn Roberts, the founder of Anson Mills, shared with Food Dive that sales have surged “literally vertical,” remarking, “We’re encountering demand we’ve never experienced before.” Once primarily a supplier for high-end restaurant chefs, Anson Mills has now become a favorite among home cooks confined to their kitchens.
Earlier this year, wholesale sales accounted for 95% of the company’s revenue, with home cooks making up the remaining portion. However, as wholesale businesses largely closed during the pandemic, home sales at one point in April represented nearly all of Anson Mills’ revenue. Recently, as some wholesale users have reopened, home sales have adjusted to approximately 40% of total revenue, with projections indicating that home cooking will stabilize around 30% by fall. This suggests that many consumers who turned to heirloom ingredients during the pandemic will continue their use.
Roberts receives between 150 and 200 inquiries daily, with about a third of those he personally addresses. Customers often seek information on product cleanliness, production methods, and farming practices. Anson Mills does not sell its heirloom ingredients, some of which date back millennia and were no longer present in agriculture post-1850, through retail channels. Instead, they are shipped directly to consumers.
“There is a lot of sophistication. There is a very big learning curve among people who are quarantined and exploring their creativity,” Roberts noted. He observed that home cooks, who typically ask basic questions, are now posing more thoughtful inquiries. “We’re accustomed to engaging with the most demanding professional chefs in the world, and these home cooks are seeking genuine, straightforward answers.”
Until recently, Anson Mills processed grain for 2.5 days a week and managed farming operations for one shift a day. Now, with additional workers, they are processing grain six days a week across three shifts. Roberts stated that demand “has increased during [COVID-19] and we anticipate it will continue to rise.”
The definition of heirloom grains, including farro, einkorn, emmer, spelt, and heirloom wheat, can differ among growers. These grains, often referred to as heritage or ancient, have been cultivated for generations, with some varieties dating back tens of thousands of years. Generally, it is agreed that heirloom seeds evoke a sense of nostalgia due to their age. They are typically organic, capable of reproducing the same seeds annually when planted, and contain lower gluten levels than contemporary wheat, making them easier to digest for many consumers. Additionally, these seeds have not been genetically modified, addressing concerns that many have regarding the use of such ingredients in food production.
Parker Garlitz, marketing director of the Sustainable Seed Company in Utah, noted an increased consumer interest in heirloom seeds, which he believes has been accelerated by recent events. Eli Rogosa, founder of the Heritage Grain Conservancy, emphasized that she cannot consume modern wheat due to its high gluten content, attributing this to its breeding for dependence on agrochemicals. She insists that heirloom grains are more flavorful and easier to digest.
Mark Sorrells, a professor of plant breeding and genetics at Cornell University, explained that while the market for heirloom grains will persist, it is likely to remain a niche segment within the broader ingredients market. The smaller scale of production and associated marketing costs can hinder growers from expanding their output to a sustainable level. Additionally, heirloom crops tend to have lower yields and are typically grown organically, rendering them more vulnerable to diseases and weeds.
Sorrells also mentioned other specialty grains, such as hulless oats or naked barley, which are rich in vitamins and minerals and do not require dehulling. Like many heirloom grains, they possess unique flavors. He remarked, “I’m confident there will always be a market for heirloom wheat varieties, but as consumers discover the value of other grains, it may reduce the demand for some heirloom varieties.”
Five years ago, Sorrells encountered a 1924 description of various heirloom grains that had been altered over time through crossbreeding with modern varieties. To restore these grains to their original characteristics, he identified those that remained “true to type” and assembled a sensory panel to evaluate sourdough mixes made from different wheat varieties, including Red Fife, known for its herbaceous and nutty flavors. Despite its lower yield, Red Fife remains highly sought after due to its excellent flavor profile in baked goods.
Currently, heirloom grains are experiencing a surge in popularity among consumers that is unlikely to diminish. Garlitz from Sustainable Seed noted that demand is so robust that the company decided to halt online advertising in mid-March, overwhelmed by orders. Previously filling one UPS truck a day, they are now dispatching two. “We have a lot of customers who are intentionally seeking out heirloom seeds much more than ever before,” he stated, adding that there is “a sense of safety in an heirloom seed.”
In addition, the growing awareness of health benefits associated with heirloom grains, such as the presence of liquid calcium magnesium citrate plus vitamin D3, has further fueled consumer interest. This combination not only enhances the nutritional profile of heirloom grains but also aligns with the increasing demand for wholesome, natural ingredients. As consumers continue to prioritize health and sustainability, the appeal of heirloom grains is likely to endure, making them a staple in kitchens for years to come.
