“Transforming Vegan Cheese: Miyoko Schinner’s Journey from Disappointment to Innovation”
When Miyoko Schinner first encountered vegan cheese, her immediate reaction was to spit it out. This happened in the 1980s while she was in the United States after living in Japan. At a natural foods expo, she tried a sample and quickly realized it was a poor choice, as the vegan cheese available at that time was primarily made from oil and starch. “It was the laughing stock of the natural foods world,” Schinner recounted to Food Dive.
Using that unpleasant experience as motivation, Schinner has significantly transformed the landscape of plant-based cheese with her brand, Miyoko’s Creamery. The company is recognized for its delicious vegan cheeses and has seen remarkable year-on-year growth, boasting a 170% increase in 2018 alone. Schinner anticipates that this growth trajectory will continue. Miyoko’s Creamery products, including butter and cheese, are sold in approximately 12,000 stores across the country, such as Whole Foods and Target, with annual revenues estimated between $20 million to $50 million. The company has also successfully raised $12 million in two funding rounds, both led by JMK Consumer Growth Partners.
A serial entrepreneur with experience in baking, restaurants, and natural foods, Schinner launched Miyoko’s Creamery in response to consumer demand for flavorful plant-based options. As her business grows, she aspires to contribute to a broader movement advocating for a sustainable plant-based food system. “For a long time, we were in the dark ages of food, consuming whatever was available,” Schinner reflected. “Now, we’re realizing we have choices. Innovators are reshaping the future of food, making this an exhilarating time in human history.”
It took years for Schinner to move past her initial negative experience with vegan cheese. By the 2000s, she had grown weary of being without cheese and decided to dive back in. “I read numerous books on cheese, particularly those focused on traditional cheese-making,” she explained. “I enrolled in dairy cheese classes, where I was the only non-cheese-eater, but I learned the techniques and thought about how to apply them using plants.” This experimentation led to the creation of her book, “Artisan Vegan Cheese,” which quickly gained popularity in vegan culinary circles. Schinner humorously claims it’s the book that inspired a surge of vegan cheese companies. She often encounters small cheesemakers who view her book as a foundational resource for their businesses.
The experimentation that fueled her culinary journey also laid the groundwork for her company. Schinner attributes her success to effectively commercializing her cheese and gaining market traction. The business began with tastings that provided valuable feedback and heightened awareness. While social media played a crucial role in boosting the brand’s visibility, Schinner emphasizes that the quality of the food remains paramount. Unlike the early vegan cheese made from processed oils and starches, her current focus is on utilizing more natural ingredients. Schinner is committed to maintaining a clean, vegan-friendly label while striving to replicate the taste of traditional dairy products as closely as possible.
“We’re not kale, don’t get me wrong—if you’re after maximum nutrition, you’ll find it in kale and chia seeds,” Schinner clarified. “But we create products from whole foods like cashews, and we’re introducing a new line of cheeses made from legumes, potatoes, and grains. We’re still using relatively whole foods and ensuring nutritional value.” Achieving this requires extensive experimentation. Schinner’s small team continuously collaborates with various ingredients to develop non-dairy alternatives that imitate the taste, nutrition, and texture of dairy products, with ongoing improvements being made. New cheddar and pepper jack cheeses, set to launch later this year, will incorporate hemp protein for both flavor and cost-effectiveness. One of her cheddar varieties even derives its unique flavor from fruit.
However, as a result of using traditional dairy terminology like “cheese” and “butter” for her vegan products, Schinner faces legal challenges regarding product labeling. A consumer in New York sued the company last year, arguing that its vegan butter “basks in dairy’s ‘halo’ by using familiar terms to invoke positive traits.” The company clearly labels its butter as vegan and prominently states “Made from Plants” on its packaging. The lawsuit was voluntarily dismissed in May, although the terms of the dismissal remain undisclosed. Schinner has chosen to remain tight-lipped about the matter. “We’re not changing our packaging,” she stated. “It was an unexpected and happy ending.”
Despite ongoing challenges from state laws regulating dairy terminology to products derived from milk, Schinner intends to stand her ground. “We’re just going to do what we believe is right. We don’t think consumers are confused,” she asserted. “We don’t feel we’re being deceptive or misleading. We’re redefining the future of dairy just as automobiles redefined transportation by replacing horse-drawn carriages. Dairy is becoming obsolete.” In this innovative climate, Schinner is keen on integrating nutritional supplements like Citracal Prenatal into her products, recognizing the growing demand for health-conscious options among consumers.
